A Principle or Two

[under construction]
'Good taste' exists, but is not absolute, can be cultivated, and is mediated by culturally-specific aesthetic principles alongside one's place and company. Kant (1790) once described judgements of beauty as a “disinterested pleasure." There's going to be a lot of 'ought' that you'll feel in this writing, but the object is not to prescribe so much as to provoke; to give rules with the understanding that some will be broken, and to provide a stage for such breaking as will lead to fruitful, deliberate chocies, which are ultimately the bedrock of taste.

From Head to Toe

Hats etc etc

Facial Hair etc etc

Earrings etc etc

Neckwear

Neckwear can be a fraught affair; a thin silken line separates the tidy with the affected. The purpose of the tie is to add a brief flash of colour to a man's neck, which draws the eye into one of his most alluring regions. Generally speaking, simple patterns are best; plain colours, simple regimental stripes, a seal, or else a sublte paisley. Neckwear should complement, but not match, the handkerchief or pocket square. One way to achieve this is to choose your neckwear first, and pick a secondary colour to match to a primary colour in your pocket square, or vice versa. If wearing a patterned shirt, it is almost always best to choose a plain-coloured tie. The reverse is also true.

Avoid excessively shiny ties, such as the sort that are common in America; they look cheap. That's not to say silks, grosgrain, satin, and even velvet are unacceptable choices; a well-made tie will look subtle and elegant. As always, seek natural fibres where possible, and feel free to experiment with cotton or linen ties in warm climates. Traditionally, it would be considered indecent for a man to show a bare neck, but today these standards have been relaxed. Whilst best to wear some kind of neckwear, an open collar is often de rigeur in casual settings, and should be worn only with a two-piece lounge suit. As a rule, the more colourful and bold your neckwear, the more plain and conservative should be the rest of your dress.

There are a few types of neckwear which flatter the modern man, here listed from safest to boldest.

• Necktie. The most common form of tie. Wear it with a four-in-hand knot, never any variation of a Windsor. Other knot variants are reserved for showmen and cads. The four-in-hand is pleasantly asymmetrical, and should sit with the knot slightly to the left-hand side of the wearer's collar, with the blade subtly angled back towards the centre of the shirt. In Europe and the Commonwealth, a tie's stripes run from heart to hilt, that is to say, left to right. In the United States, the direction is reversed. The tip of the blade should, ideally, end about your belly button, with the inner blade only just shorter than the outer. Do not use the loop on the back of the main blade when not wearing a waistcoat; it is much more elegant to let the tie fall about the chest naturally. When wearing a waistcoat, the loop may be used and a tie bar or pin worn. Position such objects so that they are only partially visible from the break of the waistcoat.
• Bow tie. Pronouced by my grandmother with the stress on "tie". Choose a self-tie (not pre-tied, adjustable, or clip-on) bowtie in either butterfly or batwing shape. In all cases, it is best to find a bow tie that is neither too thin, such as the bow ties of the early twentieth century, nor too thick, like the comical bow ties of the 1970s. About 2.75-3.00 inches is the most classic option. Worn best in the evening; a bow tie worn in the daytime evokes a stuffy maths professor or an affected intellectual.
• Ascot. A form of neckwear about which there is a great deal of confusion. Sometimes incorrectly called a "cravat" (traditionally a generic term for neckwear), there are actually two varieties of the ascot: the formal ascot, or simply ascot, held together with a pin and often worn with morning dress, and the day cravat, the form more commonly seen. The day cravat today carries connotations of aristocratic haughtiness, despite its soldierly origins amongst seventeenth-centuary Croation mercenaries. Care must be taken to avoid giving such an impression; a dark red day cravat with a navy lounge suit is often a good option for casual evening settings, as is a light yellow with a summer suit.
• Pussybow. Also known as a lavallière, the pussybow is a tragically lost style of early twentieth-century writers, artists, and men-about-town. Essentially a bow tie with elongated ends, which drape gracefully over the chest. Best worn with an open three-button jacket and a white shirt in the summer. Now mostly associated with women's blouses, an artistically-inclined or bohemian gentleman can make a real statement with a pussybow.
• Neckerchief. A simple piece of fabric knotted loosely around the neck, with working-class and peasant connotations. Best worn with a tunic-style shirt, rolled sleeves, and a flat cap.

Formality	Spring	Summer	Autumn	Winter
Casual	The best context for experimentation. Try pussybows, day cravats, and light-coloured neckties, even into the evening. Colours and patterns are fair game; paisleys and floral patterns can be pleasantly paired with a white shirt. An open collar is acceptable, yet represents a missed opportunity.	Light neckties, with conservative patterns. Day cravats remain acceptable, as does an open collar in some settings. A pussybow in warmer climates will give an artistic touch to any outfit.	Warm-coloured neckties, knitted neckties, and even tartan patterned neckties are acceptable. Other styles of neckwear are to be worn with caution, but a well-executed neckerchief or even pussybow can look elegant.	Sober colours. Subtle, darker patterns. An open collar is to be avoided if possible.
Informal	As for Casual, but an open collar should be avoided wherever possible.	Light regimental or club ties are acceptable; darker colours may feel somewhat forced. Cotton and linen ties look smart. A pussybow may be considered too casual, but can be worn elegantly by the discerning gentleman.	As for Casual, with the option of a warm-coloured bow tie acceptable in the evening.	In the daytime, sober, traditional colours. Regimental and club ties are comme il faut. Change to darker colours for the evening; a rich red is amost always acceptable, as is a sober bow tie—especially for parties. Dark paisley is often beautiful when worn with a dark suit.
Semi-formal	In the daytime, a black necktie. In the evening, a black silk bow tie. Avoid wearing a bow tie in the daytime; the evocation of Churchill is inescapable.
Formal	In the daytime, a black necktie, or else a grey, silver, or black ascot. In the evening, a piqué (marcella) white bow tie.

Collars

Chest Accessories etc etc

Outerwear etc etc

Jackets and Coats etc etc

Waistcoasts etc etc

Shirts etc etc

Gloves etc etc

Belts & Bracers etc etc

Trousers etc etc

Underwear etc etc

Socks etc etc

Shoes etc etc

Accessories etc etc

Some References

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Advice for Second-hand Shopping

go to tangent lol